Soho

The Chinese Gate on Gerrard Street, Soho, London (Photo © Reid Bramblett)
The Chinese Gate on Gerrard Street, Soho, London

London's old Bohemian neighborhood is firmly in the tourist and nightlife zone now, but still packed with great cheap eateries

The Soho neighborhood of London has worn many mantles over the years—Bohemian hood, Chinatown, seedy underbelly of the West End.

Soho is located south of Oxford Street and north of Leicester Square, between Regent Street to the west and Charing Cross Road to the east (though it predates those 19C boundaries).

Named perhaps for a hunting cry, perhaps for a war rallying cry (both?)—a name it has lent to many other bohemian neighborhoods around the world—the original Soho has been an entertainment center for centuries, though for much of that time, "entertainment" meant establishments of ill repute (read: music halls and brothels, and by the 20C sex shops).

It has great literary associations—John Dryden once lived at 43 Gerrard Street; Samuel Johnson and Joshua Reynolds used to meet at the Turk's Head Tavern at 9 Gerrard Street. Soho was a good setting for the homes of characters in 19C novels from the likes of Dickens and Robert Louis Stevenson (Mr. Hyde set up his London residence in Soho).

As one of the rundown areas of Westminster, Soho also attracted immigrants—French Hugenots in the 17C, Italians and Greek in the 19C (who planted the seeds of the local dining industry)—and, later, avant garde musicians.

Soho bars and clubs are where, in the 1950s, bebop jazz, Beatnik culture, and skiffle music all flourished.

In the 1960s, Soho hosted Europe's first rock clubs—the 2i's Coffee Bar, Flamingo Club, Whisky a Go Go—and recording studios.

The Rolling Stones first performed in July, 1962 at the Marquee Club on Wardour Street. The Beatles, Elton John, Queen, and David Bowie all recorded at Trident Studios at 17 St Anne's Court. Eric Clapton and Brian Jones both lived in the neighborhood. (No. 6 Denmark Street was a hotbed, where Donovan and the Stones recorded, Elton John wrote Your Song, and the Sex Pistols demoed—they lived in the basement, after all.) Led Zeppelin rehearsed for the first time in August, 1968, in an unknown basement on Gerrard Street

In the 1970s, London's Chinatown relocated from the East End to Soho, specifically Gerrard Sreet, and by the late 1980s and 1990s, Soho was really cleaning up its act, becoming known more for cheap little restaurants than sex shops.

By the 2000s, the restaurants weren't all so cheap anymore, and—like much of the rest of the West End—Soho has become pretty well gentrified—though it remains a great place to go for good nosh and nightlife.

Soho Tours
 

These might include Soho

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Tips

How long does Soho take?

You will likely wander through parts of Soho several times on your explorations of the West End. Spend as long as you'd like.